I spent alot of time trying to figure out how to structure this post. The last 4 days in Puerto Viejo have been even more dramatically influencing than the culture shock I experienced here the first 4 days.
I want to say thanks to Ingvild and Carola, two young women from Scandinavia (Norway and Sweden respectively). For most of the time I was in Peurto Viejo the three of us hung out together and had an absolute blast. From feeding the crabs chips, to the the fire spinning show they put on on the beach (yes real live fire spinning), to dodging mammoth potholes on scooters, to discussing the advantages of social democracy at 4am, to the fresh Cuban cigars they brought in with them from their precedingly connected trip to Cuba, its been 4 days of mad crazy intense fun. It was like being at camp again and having to say goodbye was hard. I really appreciate the incredible kindness and new friends.
Puerto Viejo is like going back in time. I saw a monkey, a poison frog, and the blue crabs are everywhere. They burrow in holes all over town, jarring your peripheral vision as you as you walk around. Its a Rastafarian community that is non-commercialized and basic, has dirt streets, and and has taught me alot. Although tourists go there, its not a normal kind of tourist. No rental car stations (you mostly walk where you want to go), no hotels with Consierge's waiting for you (although there are many people that will tell you where anything is including a few that ) and there credit cards are NOT widely accepted. I would concur with others that this is truely paradise but I dont see it as paradise because of the palm trees or the blue/green beaches that line the town. Nor would I call it paradise because of the almost perfect weather or plentiful exotic wild life. I would call it paradise because it is authentic. Its the real deal. This town was built on immigrants from china and the islands, who have lived here for many years. They raise families, and do the best they can to get along, but they do it with peace and togetherness and love. Can you believe it? I walked the streets during a power outage with people all around us in the complete pitch darkness (I hear that this is a common occurrence).
People lit candles, the bands kept playing and the night went on. Later on we ordered to juices to go and because the woman had to return the glass bottles back to the delivery man, she insisted on pouring the juice in reused bottled water bottles. Things here are about function more than form, and while you are here you its easy to forget there is an organized world somewhere. Commercialism is good and its necesessary in many ways but I hope that it never comes to this place. If people get wind of it (and they are starting too) it can really hurt this place badly I think (There is a movement to prevent costa ricans from getting displaced by all the incoming growth).
Anyway in spite of all the poverty, and lack of financial or healthcare resources (there is a local shamen that people prefer to go to in lieu of traveling to the nearest hospital), people are basically kind and happy.
It has its ups and downs, (drug trafficking is big all over the country, mugging happens to tourists occasionally), but there is a flow here that is almost magical. I spoke with people that have traveled all over the world but most say that this little town is charming and unique in its own way and they have never experienced anything like it. I didnt want to leave.
I would recommend it to anyone but be prepared to rough it a little, (shared bathrooms and no AC are the norm), but its cheap, there is live music every night and its real. Being there I had to put my gear in a lower position, had no choice but to do without my creature comforts, AND live out of a backpack for four days. All that and I havent felt this clear, content, and anxiety free for as long as I can remember.
I really do have alot more to say, but I am exhausted from the bus ride back (I was the only one to have their luggage searched by the police at a passport check) and its 3am here. I have uploaded some pictures and video clips to my web site and I hope that you take a look.
-D
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